A Universal Genève Polerouter 20368-1 Black Crosshair Dial 1960s

A Universal Genève Polerouter 20368-1 Black Crosshair Dial 1960s

£3,195.00 GBP

A Universal Genève Polerouter 20368-1 Black Crosshair Dial 1960s

£3,195.00 GBP

A Universal Genève Polerouter reference 20368-1 from c. 1961-1962 with a highly desirable no-date, black crosshair dial in excellent condition. This is a really excellent example of Gerald Genta’s legendary design: The dial retains a deep black colour, with a very faint, speckled patina, and the sculptural lyre lugs remain sharply defined. This particular no-date configuration is coveted by collectors, and there are not many on the market in this condition.

The watch is powered by Universal Genève’s pioneering calibre 218-9 ‘microtor’ automatic movement. Amongst the first mass market micro-rotor movements, it allowed this watch to have an exceptionally thin and sleek profile for an automatic at the time. The movement is running well and keeping accurate time but is being sold as unserviced due to minor rotor-rub. This does not impact the running of the watch, so I leave it to the buyers discretion to pursue a repair.

A beautiful Polerouter with a black crosshair no-date dial and microtor movement in honest condition with lots of vintage charm.

Dial
  • The original dial retains a deep black colour with light spotting and patina present
  • Gilt printed crosshair and writing
  • Applied U logo and lume-filled stainless steel dauphine hands
  • Original dial lume plots have darkened to almost black
  • Stainless steel chapter ring with light patina
  • The acrylic crystal appears original, but polished: the stamped U logo is still visible with a 10x loupe
Case:
  • Stainless steel case with sculptural lyre lugs manufactured by Huguenin Frères
  • The case is unpolished and its condition is consistent with age and wear: there are fine scratches and marks throughout, please examine the photos carefully
  • Screw-fit caseback with Polerouter globe logo; the caseback appears to have been polished in the past
  • Universal Genève signed crown is likely to be a service replacement
  • 34 mm diameter (without crown) | 42.5 mm lug-to-lug | 17.5 mm lug width | 9.5 mm thick
Movement:
  • Universal Genève Calibre 218-9 Microtor Automatic with date
  • 28 Jewels | 18,000 bph | 56 hour power reserve when new
  • The watch is being sold as unserviced, but its running well and keeping time within ±20 sec/day
  • The micro-rotor pinion is loose and causing minor rotor rub, this does not impact the functioning of the watch
Strap & Buckle:
  • Black Ostrich shin strap custom made to perflectly fit the Polerouter’s 17.5 mm lug width
  • Generic stainless steel buckle

~ The watch is pictured on a 7.5 in (19 cm) wrist ~

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A Universal Genève Polerouter 20368-1 Black Crosshair Dial 1960s